A Mano 2003 Primitivo    1/2

Primitivo is the same grape as California’s zinfandel and both are identical to Croatian variety crljenak kaštelanski. Yet the recently made zin connection has brought Italian primitive to a certain level of stardom in North America. A Mano is perhaps the best modern stylist, making plump, soft but not soupy versions with blueberry and plum fruit, plus wood-induced cocoa, lime and light woodsmoke.

PRICE: 750 ml/$15.95 #972588

Finally, if you want to try a couple of wines far out of the ordinary, check out two selections from one of Spain's greatest modern-day winemakers, Alvaro Palacios. Alvaro Palacios Les Terrasses 2004 ($38.95, No. 977843) is an unconventional blend of grenache, carignan, cabernet sauvignon and syrah, suggesting flavours of plum, berries, spice, minerals and roasted meat. A good beef wine. Also lovely and intriguing (and not just for its cool, modern label) is Palacios Remondo Placet Rioja 2005 ($23.95, No. 675934). This medium-bodied white, made from the offbeat macabeo grape, is brimming with notes of citrus, peach and minerals, with a slightly oily texture and nuance of luscious oak.

Saturday, November 27, 2006

William Fèvre Chablis Champs Royaux 2005

RATING: 89

This is the best vintage I have tried of this wine since 2000. A terrific Chablis at a bargain price. Pale straw with a nose of green apples and lemons; medium-bodied, crisply dry with great balance and length. A versatile food wine.

PRICE: 750 ml/$21.10

AVAILABILITY: At selected liquor stores (product #276436)

Tony Aspler for Tidings Magazine, October 2006